Rise Magazine - Brasserie James

Brasserie James

Above: Brasserie James

You might remember that I recently reviewed Gazette, just off Balham High Road, and applauded it for its unpretentious approach to classic French brasserie cooking. Well, just as Napoleon felt the thorn of Nelson in his side, so might Gazette with the arrival of a close competitor, Brasserie James, offering a modern, mostly British menu that will definitely give “les Frenchies” something to think about.
For local owner/chef, Craig James, these are first steps at going it alone, after leaving the warm fuzz of the Conran Empire, having worked his apprenticeship at The Chophouse and Quaglino’s amongst others.
First impressions were good. A smart retractable canopy guards the front of the restaurant where five or six tables enjoy al fresco dining while inside, wood floors meet soft-coloured walls.
Having not got up in time for breakfast,
I was delighted to see a generous brunch menu was offered. Small, easy to decipher, very few dishes that didn’t get the taste buds working and definitely a candidate menu for leaving those of us with hangovers with a complete what-to-eat crisis.
A shared starter (one mustn’t forget the waistline in summer) of Morris Gold black pudding and fried quail’s egg was a delight. Soft, rich, peppery pudding, just the right amount, accompanied perfectly by the egg, with warm silky yolk finding its way into every part of the crumbly pudding. Green leaves as garnish added some crunch.
Main courses from the brunch menu were perfectly good, if not quite as well-executed as the starter. British Excellence Burger lived up to the title save for a rather ordinary bap. With meat that tasty, I would like to have seen it offered the happy home of a fresh, floured bap and perhaps a few more tomatoes and lettuce as tenants. Corned beef hash with fried egg was better and the
diced beetroot was certainly an original companion .
I like this place though. I’ve no doubt you’ll like it too and it’s already proving popular with the locals. A good wine list and extremely helpful and friendly team add the finishing touches.
Whilst we might not witness the Battle of Trafalgar between these two relative newcomers to Balham, they are both most definitely worthy of a visit. Bonne chance and the best of British to you Mr James!

Two-course meal for two with bottle of wine: £60

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