Food and Drink

Buchan's

Above: Buchan's

When this restaurant first opened its doors in 1990 it proudly broadcasted its Scottish heritage loud and clear – not least in taking its name from John ‘39 Steps’ Buchan. Almost two decades later and the Celtic theme has been toned down slightly. There are still nods to the north in the shape of 39 whiskeys and wines, Scottish-sourced beef and of course, haggis, but now the starters include a tiger prawn cocktail with guacamole and smoked tuna with Wasabi. The haggis remains a popular dish though, and with good reason. The secret here is simplicity. Accompanied only by mashed parsnips, potatoes and a dram of house whiskey, the haggis was surprisingly light and subtle for something that contains sheep’s heart and lamb’s liver. A second starter of rare smoked duck proved an equally unexpected dish and a succulent success. If the starters were a voyage into the unexpected then the main courses were a return to chartered waters. Scottish fillet steak arrived thick, rare, tender and flowing with highland spirit. The lamb was less rare unfortunately, but complemented by a thoughtful mustard sauce which glazed the rack like a second skin, and a clever broad bean mash. Overall you may find Buchan’s less of a pure-blood Celt, but there are benefits aplenty from the international influx.

Two-course meal for two with bottle of wine: £65