The up-market, sober curry is a concept that has been slow to take hold in the UK with many still clinging to the idea that a tikka masala must be accompanied by nine pints of Kingfisher. Fortunately this is changing with the introduction of Indian and Asian restaurants which are light, clean, welcoming, stocking decent wine, using fresh ingredients and which don’t drown dishes in oil. Café Zia is just such a modern, if slightly plain, restaurant with windows running the length of the building, high ceilings and elegant, understated furnishings. From the moment the starters arrived it was clear that this restaurant was proud of its food. The chicken tikka lasoni came bursting with succulence and flavour, and simply laid out with only decorative shredded beetroot and carrot for company. Such simplicity continued into the main courses with dishes awash with fresh herbs and spices (you could even see the fresh coriander leaves!). The menu is made up of a refreshing number of fish options in addition to the 16 chicken and lamb dishes which are a blend of contemporary (like madurai – an original take on a chilli lamb massala) and classics. The chicken jaisalmar is especially worthy of a mention. This rare member of the dopiaza family is delightfully smooth and buttery with the large, tender chunks of meat and slices of onion infused with delicate heat and flavours. The subtlety of this dish is indicative of this restaurant’s approach to making curry with no one spice, herb or taste drowning out any other. It’s a lesson that many other Indian restaurants would do well to heed.
Two-course meal for two with bottle of wine: £50