For the fortunate residents of Balham there is a new gem to discover. Tucked away at the bottom of Ramsden Road (off the high street) you will find Gazette – the second site for French owner Walter following on from the success of his first restaurant in Battersea Reach. With rustic wood floors, brasserie-style banquettes and simple, bright colours, Gazette doesn’t try to rely on its décor to tempt its customers, and it doesn’t need to. A good impression is immediately created by the presence of carafes of wine on the reasonably-priced, mainly French, wine list. My starter of Crevettes et Avocat (prawn cocktail to the Francophobes amongst you) was delightfully fresh and tender and the accompanying sauce, well-balanced and delicate. A roast rack of piglet with apricots and pommes puree was tender, tasty and sizable – clearly this was a very happy pig in its day – though another five minutes might have benefited the crackling. A hearty Provençale calamari risotto was rich with creamy rice and tender, melt-in-the-mouth squid.
The best thing about these guys is their joie de vivre. Seldom do you find a Gallic soul who doesn’t take themselves far too seriously. Not this bunch. The menu is fun and engaging, styled like a newspaper (thus the Gazette connection). There is chalk on the slate-topped tables to scribble love notes to your nearest and dearest or to distract a restless toddler. You will love this place for its simple charm and its delicious food. Be warned, go hungry, portion sizes are healthy to say the least. Washed down with some excellent wine, I’m sure you’ll manage it.
Two-course meal for two with ½ litre carafe of wine: £60