Do not be put off by the name. Gem & I may sound like a hairdressers but it is in fact a fine purveyor of traditional Turkish/Kurdish cuisine. On first look this may appear quite a specific remit but the Kurds actually account for about 20% of Turkish people and have had a huge influence on the country’s food. Clearly, there are also a lot of sheep in Turkey for many of the dishes were lamb-based. However, such is the diversity of the cut of lamb and cooking styles that the menu does not suffer from repetition. After much agonising over numerous deliciously-sounding dishes, we opt for the traditional falafels and kofte (charcoal grilled minced lamb with red onions, parsley and sumac). The kofte is delicious. I’ve found myself eating this dish a few times recently, but never have I found it so succulent and bursting with flavour as I did at Gem & I. The main menu did include some chicken and fish, but we’d got a taste for Kurdish lamb and found ourselves ordering a gently cooked oven baked lamb shank (Incik) and a juicy dish of skewered and barbecued minced lamb (Adana), complemented by a stunning bottle of merlot from a well thought out wine list. Once more we were not disappointed. Gem & I’s success lies in the simplicity of its dishes and the cooking process. The chef cooks with a confidence backed by centuries of Kurdish tradition. I later visited him in his kitchen and watched as he turned lamb over flaming coals. "This," he stated unequivocally, "is how the first man cooked his meals." There’s something reassuring about that.
Two-course meal for two and bottle of house wine: £40