I always enjoy seeing entrepreneurs bothering to spend time at the shop floor getting their hands dirty. Sam Harrison, whose first venture with co-owner Rick Stein, Sam’s Brasserie in Chiswick is a firm favourite of local diners there, is just such a proprietor and it seems the people of Balham appreciate it – judging by the number of customers on a wet, blustery Tuesday evening. The feel of the place is modern, with a theatrical central bar and open kitchen taking centre stage, white walls, stripped floors, comfy banquette seating and simply laid tables combining to give that brasserie feel, whilst being smart enough to encourage serious dining. To the food. Small is beautiful with me and with few more than half a dozen starters or mains, plus a similar number of specials, small it is. My starter of deep fried baby squid and anchovy mayo was well-presented and well-executed – the squid was crispy and tender and the anchovy mayo, rich and unctuous. The second starter of a half pint of shell-on prawns was less splendid – the prawns being a touch mushy and difficult to peel – but a sirloin steak with béarnaise and fries lifted the spirits again. Beautifully executed, it came rare as requested and full of flavour, well complemented by a béarnaise cut with just the right amount of tarragon. The wine list is varied with a healthy mix of grapes and sizes – it was refreshing to see a choice of 75ml or 500ml carafes – and there’s even a word from the co-owner in the form of his very own ‘Rick Stein Sauvignon’. The personal touch is certainly abundant at Harrison’s.
Two-course meal for two with bottle of wine: £65