Food and Drink

Martilez

Above: Martilez

The food in Martilez is not at all what you’d expect. Eyeing the plain décor and the soulless atmosphere, I was ready for a menu that reflected this lack of imagination. Instead, what came out of the kitchen was some of the finest food in south London. I do not use such praise lightly, but the food simply could not be faulted. Chef Iain Inman is a former Chez Bruce resident and evidently a confident talent. It shows in his bold selection of menu which included calves tongue and ham hock stuffed pigs’ trotters alongside homemade game terrine with piccalilli (which has been carefully pickled by Iain for six months). The latter was a refreshingly light and easy starter, without the heavy richness that so often accompanies game dishes, while the red mullet on a bed of mussels and saffron relish was so tender it dissolved in the mouth. The options for main dishes were equally enticing and well-balanced. My choice of slow roasted pork belly arrived cooked to a succulent finish and beautifully presented on a bed of rich, creamy mash. Across the table, a dish with roasted hazelnuts scattered over a roast breast of mallard appeared and was so clearly pink that it hardly needed my companion’s tasting confirmation to know that it was cooked to tender perfection. There was a definite theme developing here – whatever Chef Inman turned his hand to instantly became gastronomic gold. And so it continued into dessert with a homemade chocolate brownie that, needless-to-say, was a delight. Such culinary talent should be treasured and it’s a shame that the owners of Martilez have yet to provide the platform on which this chef can shine. When they do, this could and should be one of the hottest tables in town.

Two-course meal with bottle of house wine: £50