When summer comes, Riverpoint’s location overlooking the Thames, together with its abundant windows and pontoon hanging over the bank, will be enough to fill its tables. But in winter, the experience inside must do the talking. Fortunately, when i visited, it said many of the right things. There were some nice touches which immediately created a good impression – the interior was crisp, clean and stylish; the service was friendly, the wine list extensive and the bread fresh and locally-sourced. The menu though is a little more muted. There’s undoubted thought and ambition here from the executive chef, but it’s not entirely clear in what direction. He says he wants to cater for everyone’s palate and the result in this case was an eclectic selection of dishes which includes steak and Guinness pie, Thai green curry, vegetarian Wellington, beef burger and pan-fried rump steak. Everything was certainly tempting but by ranging from east to west and gastro pub to minimalist restaurant cuisine it was difficult to get to grips with. However, this slight reservation paled into relative insignificance when you’d finally made your choice and the dishes arrived – they were delicious. A pear, Roquefort and watercress starter used its ingredients cleverly, with the strong-tasting cheese being diluted by the salad. A chicken breast filled with chestnut and Cumberland sausage was innovative and light, and arrived at the table so pristinely laid out that you hardly wanted to move a single succulent slice. The obvious care with which each dish had been prepared, from the blending of tastes to the local sourcing of produce and the design on the plate, made eating at Riverpoint a rewarding experience all round.
Two-course meal for two with bottle of wine: £55